29.7.05

mangalpandey

The Rising
- Take your friends and family to the movies!

I've been awaiting this for what seems like a small eternity: "The Rising", Bollywood superstar Amir Khan's epic tale of Mangal Pandey and the Indian sepoy uprising of 1857 is set to have world première on August 12. Some of you may remember that I was picked up on the streets of Bombay and cast as an extra in this mammoth production (see blog entry 9.5.04). I was even so lucky as to be in the same scene as Amir Khan and Rani Mukherjee and I reckon there is a good chance I'll bee visible in the final picture. Look out for the British soldier with massive sideburns and a bewildered facial expression who has to step aside at the entrance of the house of pleasure as Rani and Amir come storming inside.

/haakon/

BTW! Read more about the movie at indiaglitz.com and imdb.com and watch the teaser (flash) at nowrunning.com!
The Incompetent Fools
or: Count on the Postal Service to Ruin an Otherwise Perfectly Good Day

Stuart is leaving for America on Sunday and I've been offered the room he is renting from a Tamil family on Peradeniya road. It was an offer I gladly accepted as my relationship to John has gone from strained to painful for reasons I won't go into here. It is enough to say I'd be a lot more comfortable somewhere else, and Stuarts' host family are warm and kind people.

Preparing for the move I decided to send a bunch of books back to Norway. I will only be here another month and with the Kandy perahera coming up I figure it is best to start emptying the nest now (how did I end up with so much "stuff" in so little time?). I filled a backpack with books and caught a bus to the Main Post Office.

Having done this a couple of times before I figured I knew the routine.

Step 1: Get parcel wrapped in Post Shop
Step 2: Add address
Step 3: Get the approval of man in Counter 16 who will tell you the postage
Step 4: Buy stamps from different counter
Step 5: Drop the parcel in Counter 16

I unloaded my books on the Post Shop counter and declared that I wanted them wrapped as a book parcel, to be sent as "printed matter". The guy wrapped it all up in a cardboard box, applying generous amounts of tape. Well done I thought, and ventured on to Counter 16.

"Man in Counter 16" proceeds to calculate the postage for "Sea mail" (3090 rupees). I make it clear that I want to send the parcel as "printed matter". He looks dumbfounded. "Man in Counter 16" needs to consult various superiors. One claims that it is "better to send sea mail". Another says, "Parcel is too big". Finally a man I figure must be at least 3 levels above "Man in Counter 16" tells me they can't accept the parcel like this. It is not wrapped correctly. It needs to be transparent. Better I send it as air or sea mail.

I explain that the mistake was with the Post Shop. "Superior Officer" tells me I have to understand that this is not his problem. The Post Shop is a different branch and he is not responsible for their business. I tell him that this is a screwed up way of treating a customer who is not responsible for the mistake. I ask him if he can talk to the man in the Post Shop and have him re-wrap my parcel. "Superior Officer" tells me I will have to do it myself and turns his back on me. In his mind he is finished with this annoying man and he doesn't hear me when I say they won't listen to me.

Right enough. Back in the Post Shop "Wrapping Guy" tries to dodge any responsibility. "Better you send as sea mail", he tells me, and goes on by redirecting me to the man in the other Post Shop counter. This man in turn tries to convince me of sending it as sea mail and then tells me to talk to "Man in Counter 16". When I try to say that "Man in Counter 16" sent me back to the Post Shop he has gone on to the next customer. At this point I have exclaimed that "this is outrageous" to three different people and I am becoming very frustrated and angry. This, as I have mentioned earlier on the blog, is not productive. I hook on to "Wrapping Guy" and tell him to re-wrap it. He tells me to wait and then when he sees I am not in the mood to be pushed around any more he sends be into the Post Masters office.

"Post Master" is sitting at his desk in his large office and gestures to me to sit down. A number of people come and go with papers for him to sign. He smiles behind his large mustache, clearly amused at my worked up temper. I try hard to cool down and explain the situation to him. "Yes, yes", he says. He agrees that "Wrapping Guy" made a mistake. But it is "better I send sea mail". I refuse; telling him I know it is cheaper to send as printed matter. After consulting briefly with a clerk he goes on to say that the maximum weight of the printed matter parcels is 2 kilograms. This I know is not the case and I tell him I believe he must be mistaken. I sent a much larger book parcel from this very same post office last summer. He nods, but maintains that the limit is 2 kg and that my parcel, which is 9 kg must be split in 5 smaller parcels. "Better I send it sea mail".

At this point I am about to surrender. But then a clerk enters the office carrying a price list. He confers quickly with "Post Master" who looks up at me smiling. "Yes he says.. there is one price for the 2 first kilograms and then another price for each additional kilogram". Victory! (Maybe)

Back in the Post Shop "Wrapping Guy" somewhat reluctantly starts cutting open the sides of the parcel so that the content is made visible - the requirement of printed matter parcels. Last year they covered the openings with transparent plastic, however, but this "Wrapping Guy" fails to do. I tell him the books will be ruined if I send them like that. "But we have no transparent plastic" says "Clerk no2" in the Post Shop. I stare at him, not knowing whether to laugh or cry. "Clerk no2" was one of few to have shown a somewhat sympathetic side during the preceding black comedy. He rises to the occasion though, telling "Wrapping Guy" to cover the holes with transparent tape. I am almost there.

Back in Counter 16, "Man" looks rather terrified of the parcel and I. I tell him we will try this again and that I want the printed matter rate. He is at a loss, scratching his head and looking at random pages in a notebook on his desk. He grabs a hold of the neighboring clerk who doesn't seem to bring any enlightenment into the mess. Then, as a descending angel, a sari-clad woman appears out of nowhere, carrying the very same price list the clerk had shown the Post Master. "Man in Counter 16" reaches for pen and paper and proceeds to calculate. "605 rupees", he tells me. Only a few small steps away now.

"Stamp Guy" is not happy. Something is wrong with his postage machine. He waves the white stickers at the guy next to him and rambles on in Sinhala. After a few minutes, however, he feeds it a sticker which comes out perfectly stamped. I pay him, not knowing what the fuzz was about, and return triumphantly to Counter 16 where I am given "par avion"-stickers but no receipt. I won't push my luck by demanding one. Everything seems to be OK, though it hardly feels that way. First: have I pissed someone off to the point where he will sabotage my parcel to get back at me? It wouldn't surprise me the least bit. Second: the rate I was given of 605 rupees cannot be correct. It seems much too low for a 9 kg parcel to Norway.

I left the post office convinced I would never see my books again. On the way to town I looked up at a billboard above the MD Gunasena Book Shop. It has a picture of Sir Winston Churchill and carries the slogan "For the Love of Victory!" (now, who chose that for a bookstore?). In this country, to successfully send off a parcel at the correct rate is a game that has to be won. A difficult game at that. And you certainly need to know the rules because the other team is not going to tell them to you - that is; if they by chance know them themselves and don't just make them up as they go.

/haakon/

20.7.05

Making vows



Tourists Here, Tourists There, Tourists Everywhere!

I suppose it's really a cause for celebration... The tourists are back on the island! I will leave it to the journalists and the tourism industry to discuss whether they're back in the numbers we would have seen, had the tsunami been nothing but a bad dream (reports are contradicting). And of course, I haven't been to the coast and seen the situation there yet, although I'm planning a quick trip to Matare next week. But from what I gather, the surfers are back in Arugam Bay and I'd be surprised if not a great many of the whities I see in Kandy have not also been to, or are planning to go to, the southern and/or eastern beaches. Most of them certainly look like they've been picked up from a beach and put down again here.

So why this half-cynical attitude to tourists? It's only a year ago since I was one myself in this exact same place. There are a number of reasons, I suppose. Having lived here for 6 months now and made friends with a number of Lankans, I see the whole circus in a new perspective. And it's not pretty. What really gets to me are those who with an imperial air about them act as though every Lankan is here only to serve them and/or is a crook that needs to be put straight. Let me illustrate: at my regular internet café (where I am now) there is all too often some rich, fat European showering abuse on the employees because they feel the connection is slow or because they can't log onto Hotmail. Come off it people! It's not like they get a kick out of hindering people access their email. Why the hostility?

And then again. as a whitey in Kandy my patience is continually tested by others as well; that is by those who make a living off of tourists - be they touts, trishaw drivers, shop owners, agents out for commissions, etc. etc. I've been waving them off for 6 months and curiously enough, very few seem to recognize me (I'm sure we whities all look the same. One scammer who pretends to be employed at "my hotel" and wants money so he can buy ingredients for a "special dinner" has approached me with the same scam 4 times!) This last couple of weeks, with the tourist-influx, the intensity of it all has picked up. It's fair enough really: this is the price we have to pay for having Sri Lanka as our playground. And there's no reason to get worked up about it.. Anger is only counterproductive.

This is just the way it is: I can never feel truly at home here, because others won't let me feel at home, because the color of my skin clearly says I don't belong. How many immigrants to western countries aren’t experiencing just that?

But I do feel sad about it. It does prevent me from bonding with Sri Lanka on an emotional level that I would have liked to experience. Still, I am grateful for all the opportunities I've had to go to more remote areas, where, although I in a sense am more of a tourist, I am treated in a different manner altogether. How much easier it would have been to do a village study!

Or even a study of Kataragama, as I was contemplating. Going there, last week, was a superb experience, although my friend Siva's family didn't come along as I thought they would. It was us two boys. We even splashed out and got a hotel room near the temple area. The room wasn't much, but what can you expect for 500 rupees during high season in Kataragama? I am glad we're not there now, though. The crowds must have doubled or tripled since we went, and that does not mean the town wasn't crowded then.

Kataragama (also known as Skanda and Murugan), for those of you who don't know, is a God shared by Hinduism and Buddhism (But there are no gods in Buddhism, you might think. Wrong. But the gods can only help you with matters of this world, not the next.) Kataragama is also a town in the South of this island, named after just that god, and every year there is a big festival here. Traditionally it has been a predominantly Hindu pilgrimage site, but with a sharp rise in bhakti devotion among the Buddhist these last three or four decades, Kataragama has become a favorite destination with them, too.

So what goes on at the festival? Well, the short version is that people go there to make vows and do penance. You can for example ask the God to bless your car (from what I gather he's 'the one' to do that), but you can also consult him about a range of other things.. such as if you're combating illness or want improved fertility. Or maybe you want some luck with your business. Now, those of you who know better than me: feel free to comment. I know people see different gods about different things, but I'm not to sure about their different fields of expertise.

The highlight of the festival, though, is the perahera, or procession, conducted in the evening time. Elephants, dressed up in colorful robes, are paraded in front of the crowds, and between them dance young boys and girls, different groups of them representing different segments of society, in a tribute to Buddhist society itself it seems. The last elephant, a big tusker, carries a relic of the god Kataragama, safely kept in golden caskets, strapped on the elephants back and under constant surveillance by a white clad temple servant, balancing precariously on the tail end. The procession was big and lasted about an hour, but supposedly it grows much bigger towards the end of the festival, and even then it is nothing compared to the big Kandy Esala Perahera, to be held in August. Lisa, one of the American Fulbrighters has been able to secure us some good tickets for one of the last nights, and I'm hoping it will make a suitable Grande finale to my fieldwork.

/haakon/

8.7.05

Betwixt and Between

It's been a while since I wrote anything here. Since then I have enjoyed a two-week field break in Ireland, back in Kandy I celebrated my birthday with a monk at a temple and today I am off to Kataragama.

Ireland was a bit of a disappointment in some ways. Thinking of Eire, I have always imagined rolling, grass-covered hills, overcast skies and whipping rain. What greeted me was mile upon mile of flat pastures ("look, Silje! a cow!"), overcast skies and whipping rain. That was before the rain sadly gave away for a blue sky and scorching sun. I enjoyed the greyness while it lasted.

That being said, the holiday couldn't have been better. Hugging Silje again at the airport in Dublin, though wary of kissing because of incorporated Lankan taboos, it hardly felt like we'd been apart a week. Then the two weeks we had in Ireland, hardly felt like two days.

Now I'm in a bit of a limbo. The university is closed down as the non-academics (or "servants" as the monk, also a student, called them) are on strike. The students have gone home to their respective villages.

I have kept my self occupied reading and hanging out with some of the Americans. On Wednesday Stuart and I climbed Hantana, ascending from the campus-side. We were planning to go to Horton's Plains today, but then one of my university friends called me and asked if I wanted to come along to Kataragama. An offer I couldn't refuse.

And that is about as much as I have time to write today. Gotta fly!

/haakon/